So on our way to El Chalten the bus stops in the middle of no where at this guacho restaurant. There's nothing but this one hut selling empanadas and coffee, a river flowing behind it and horses roaming around. It was really interesting because everything was really rustic and authentic. First time I'd seen anything guacho related. We get back on the bus and drive for another 2hrs. We finally arrive in Chalten around 10:30pm. It's dark, rainy, and windy, and we have no idea where our hostel is. Luckily the entire town is only 5 blocks. We found our hotel and settled into our room. There was also a guy from Isreal, a guy Australia and a women from the U.S in our room. The guy from Australia was so cool. His name was Zander, he's 21 and a photographer for a surfing magazine. And the magazine has been paying him to travel all over South America. Zander was very chill, and so interesting to talk to because he's been all over the world surfing and taking pictures with his friends. He was the australian version of Tyler Cox. So cool! He even had the long hair and beanie. We decided we wanted to do a hike up to Fitz Roy and he wanted to come with. We made friends with him, and about 10 other people in the hostel, who were coincidently studying at the same University as well. We ended up playing card games until 1 am.
So thursday we had a time limit. We had to be back in town for the bus to take us back to Calafate at 6pm. But the hike we wanted to do was about 8 hrs round trip. So we decided we'd get up at 7:30 and be at the trail head by 8. Turns out the bakery doesn't open until 8 so we stuck around, had media lunas (more or less crossants) for breakfast, made lunch and took off. The trail head started at the end of the city. So 15 min walk and we were there.
This hike had the most diverse scenery I'd ever hiked in. The hike started in the trees and within 20 min we had the greatest view of the entire valley and snow covered mountain tops. Then as we continued on we hiked around a lake, through a meadow, a dry river bed, then a forest that looked like the forbidden forest at Hogwarts, up and over a few rivers, near glaciers and then rock scrambled the last hour. 20 minutes into the hike it started to snow. It was actually really fun and we were thankful it wasn't raining because we didn't have appropriate gear. However our new friend Zander was in shorts, so I don't think he appreciated it very much. We were also determined to complete this hike with some extra time before we had to leave so we were booking it. However the higher we got the stronger the wind and more cloudy it became. But we were hoping as the day went on the sun would burn the clouds away. We didn't see a single person on our way up, except for one. We ran into him with about 1 hour to go and he advised us to be very careful. He said it was a blizzard up top and he lost the trail for awhile but said since we made it this far we might as well keep going. So we continue our trek up the last steep incline. In about 1/2 a mile there were probably 30+ switchbacks. We'd walk 6 ft in one direction and then there'd be a switchback, back and forth all they way up. As our hike went on it continued to snow. But it wasn't until the last 30 min. when it really started to stick. And as we continued it started getting deeper, and deeper, and deeper... But the time we got to the top we were in shin deep snow (knee did in some places). And the wind was starting to get stronger and stronger. At some points it was so strong we had to hit the ground and find a rock to hold onto so we woudn't fall over. The trail was on the side of the mountain so if we fell, we were going to keep falling... Molly was wanting to go back but we hadn't quite gotten to the top yet, so Camille and I were planning on going 20 or so more feet, hoping to get a better view. Then all of a sudden the biggest gust came through, lasting 10 or so min. (which i guess that wouldn't make it a gust anymore) and it was at least 70+mph - not exaggerating. With all the wind and snow we couldn't see very far around us. Molly was only 10 ft below us on the trail and we couldn't see her at all. I normally don't get scared but at that moment it was a little nerve racking and an adrenaline rush. Once the wind let up we all agreed it was time to head down. We made it to the top in 3 hrs though. Record time! Sadly it was too windy and snowy so we weren't able see the amazing view of Fitz Roy. Totally worth the trip though. We got down the steep part and found a wooden hut to have lunch in, protecting us from the snow and wind. But by lunch time we were all getting really cold. Expecially Zander with shorts and no gloves. So we ate a fast lunch and kept going, trying to get warm. Sadly on our way down, we weren't the only one's on the mountain. We must of seen 50 or so other people. I really enjoy feeling like we are the only ones out there. Just you and nature. As we descended, the sun started to come out and we were able to get a lot of good pictures. But it was still a blizzard on top so we never saw Fitz Roy. But it was so great and we took so many pictures that it took us 4 hrs to get down.
We got back to the hostel, spent a few hours packing up and headed off to the bus to take us back to Calafate. It was a great 24 hr trip. Here are some pictures:
I borrowed this from a friend who went a few days before. This is what he saw...
And this is what we saw
Molly giving thanks to Pachamama (mother nature)
The valley
We got back into Calafate around 9 and then went over to Ema's for dinner. He had invited us over for an asado. Which is an Argentine BBQ. We had pork, blood sausage (personally not my favorite), Chorizo (which is like a bratwurst), and steak. It was incredible. Ema is a very outdoorsy sort of person, and you can just tell by looking at his place. He lives in a 1 bedroom house that he built himself. His kitchen table are 2x4s put together with a slab of marble on top. His cutting board (my personal favorite) is a round of wood...from a tree in his yard! He has camping gear hanging out everywhere to dry. And he was going to cook the asado outside over the fire but it was too windy. So he cooked it in the oven instead. I don't know anyone who would opt. to cook an entire meal outside over a fire when they have an entire kitchen at their disposal. He was so interesting and in love with the outdoors. He showed us pictures of his previous trips and a map of where he's planning his next adventure. Apparently he's going to find a new route up and over the mountains. The Argentine people are very proud of their culture and want to share it with everybody. And that is exactly what he did. We talked for hours drinking wine and talking about nature, outdoor sports and life in Patagonia. Ema had us try all sorts of Calafate exquisites. He went on and on about these great local berries (called Calafates) that are only found in this part of Patagonia. And how they make jam, ice cream and all these other great things out of this amazing berry. Then he opened the bag to show us and they looked exactly like blueberries. We just broke out laughing thinking that these "amazing" berries were just blueberries. Turns out their not but similar, and very good. He also had us try this vodka that was made from Calafate plants. It was also very good and didn't taste like alcohol at all. It tasted like the plant. My favorite was the bark...There is bark that they grind up and use as seasonings. But we chewed on the real deal. It's so strong that he gave us a 2mm piece. This tiny piece of bark was surprisingly very spicy and flavorful. Also had a hint of tree to it. So we once again had a great night talking and then went back to our hostel at 2am.
Friday was our last day in Calafate and nobody wanted to leave. It was hard for me to transition back into city life again. But we walked through El Calafate one last time, sat in the sun and wrote postcards to family, said our goodbyes and left. It was a great trip!
No comments:
Post a Comment